Monthly Archives: March 2015

The Shoe in Art — Miró

Still Life with Old Shoe  Joan Miró from MoMA The Provenance Research Project

Still Life with Old Shoe Joan Miró from MoMA The Provenance Research Project

.
Image reproduced only for non-commercial editorial press purposes. All rights retained by MoMA.
First in a series featuring shoes in art. From the Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), here is “Still Life with Old Shoe” by Joan Miró. Painted in Paris over four months from late January to May 29, 1937, this work features a shoe, bread, fork, bottle, and apple. This piece marks a turn away from pure abstract and moves towards Miró’s collage work. He described “Still Life with Old Shoe” as “a profound and fascinating reality.”

As for the shoe, looks like a blucher vamp with four eyelets. Can’t describe shoe front as a plain toe, because this is Miró. Very little “plain” with this Spaniard.

The Shoebox as a Work of Art

Shoegazer.se is a great website of design details and long articles written in Swedish by self described shoe well versed amateur Jesper Ingevaldsson. Google Translate works well with this site. Even if the translator overlooks “bespokekunder”, the context more than makes up for the occasional miss.

Recent article Picture Special — Luxury for footwear on shoe boxes shows how a utilitarian structure can rise to a work of art. Reprinting some of the pictures here, but so much better to pay shoegazer a visit.

George Cleverley shoebox with stitched leather nameplate, stitched leather edges and metal reinforcements.

George Cleverley shoebox with stitched leather nameplate, stitched leather edges and metal reinforcements.

Maftei Austria Bespoke box

Riccardo Bestetti  Velvet box

Shoebox with outer cover of vegetable tan leather.  Stefano Borella shows old world elegance with wingtips on top.

Shoebox with outer cover of vegetable tan leather. Stefano Borella shows old world elegance with wingtips on top.

Yohei Fukuda fabric covered box with medallion toe Oxfords.

Yohei Fukuda fabric covered box with medallion toe Oxfords.

Alden Shell Cordovan Tassel Loafers Mislabeled Leather — Another eBay Find

Alden 563 Tassel Loafer Shell Cordovan Labeled "Leather" eBay Listing 391070782143.

Alden 563 Tassel Loafer Shell Cordovan Labeled “Leather” eBay Listing 391070782143.

Here is another pair of Alden shell cordovan shoes, mislabeled as leather, currently for sale on eBay. Classic tassel loafers #8 burgundy, size 10.5D. Original Alden tops, linings, insoles. Heel tops and bottom soles replaced.

Link to eBay posting here: Alden shell cordovan tassel loafers listed as leather

Item number 391070782143, price $9.95 at the time of this posting with two bids. Ends Friday evening, March 6.

Official Shell Cordovan Shoes Model Numbers Guide

Official Shell Cordovan Shoes Model Numbers Guide

Horween shell cordovan color chart.

Horween shell cordovan color chart.

If you search for shell cordovan deals on eBay, Etsy, or other online sites, this guide is for you. Need to verify shoes are true shell cordovan and the pictures don’t show enough detail? Model numbers are a big help. Here at fityn.com, we love putting together eBay string searches of maker names and lining numbers. Here’s the data you need to find shell cordovan deals for yourself. Shopping at thrift stores or estate sales and run across a possible pair of shells? If your eye has doubts, use the guide for confirmation.

At one time or another, almost all shoe departments and stores stocked shell cordovan offerings. There are shell cordovan shoes with the imprint of George Cleverley and Sears, John Lobb and J.C. Penney’s (a nice model plain toe blucher PTB in #8, style number 6473). Zegna has or at one time did offer shell cordovan shoes. Thom McCan and Stuart McGuire also turned out shell cordovans. For decades, shoe enthusiasts and cobblers have been drawn to the distinctive look, longevity, and price of shell cordovan. The shell layer of a horse’s rump has been fashioned into loafers, slip-ons, casuals, dress shoes, Chukka / Chelsea / military / Indiana Jones / western boots, even real and proposed sneakers and trainers. Most of these shoes are production line numbers, not individual Made To Order (MTO) pairs.

Any shell cordovan list has to tip its hat to “A Hunter’s Guide: Shell Model Numbers,” which appeared January 24, 2011 on the Ask Andy About Clothes forum. That original 2011 list had 15 makers and 76 models. This first edition Official Shell Cordovan Shoes Model Numbers Guide has more than 95 makers and over 500 model numbers, names, or shoe style descriptions.

This list is made for searching. We will do individual stories and lots of graphics later about particular manufacturers (Alden, Carmina, and Allen Edmonds are early contenders for stand-alone stories). For now, our goal is to make it easy for the reader to quickly separate shell cordovan from other leathers, providing a one stop information shop with open search capabilities.

Please use this guide as a research tool, not as revealed truth. Shoemakers can and do use the same style numbers for different shoes and leathers. EBay sellers have also been known to list a pair of Florsheims as a 93605, the venerated Florsheim #8 shell cordovan longwing. If the pictures show grain leather, that’s not Florsheim shell cordovan.

We are always looking for more names and numbers. Please send us comments and details.

We’ve also set up links to eBay for targeted searches on some of the more popular and available shell cordovan manufacturers.  If you don’t see a name brand shell cordovan link, it’s because they appear so rarely for that manufacturer that your time is better spent looking for shoes that do exist.

Shell Cordovan Shoes on eBay

Alden Shell Cordovan on eBay

Alden shoes on eBay

Alden

Long Wing Blucher: 975, 9751, 97896, 9750, 97502, 97891
Plain Toe Blucher Oxford: 990, 9901, 93911, 9905, 9900, AF66
Traditional Saddle Oxford: Black 993, Dark Burgundy 994
Leisure Handsewn Moccasin: 986, 987, 6754, 6746
Tassel Moccasin: 563, 664
Full Strap Slip-On: 684, 6845
Penny Loafer full strap slip-on cigar 6841
Medallion tip oxfords brown 9084
Monk Strap Oxford: 954, 1655
Wing Tip Bal Oxford: 974, 9741
Wing Tip Blucher Oxford: Black AF75, #8 AF80
Cordovan Straight Tip Boot: Dark Burgundy 4070H; Black 4075H
Cordovan Wing Tip Boot: Dark Burgundy 4461H; Black 4465H
Chukka Boot: 1339, 1340, 13132, 1375, AF18, AF11, AF31, AF32
High Lace Boot for Alden Carmel AF43, AF53, AF60, AF72, AF85, AF76, AF88, AF89, AF79, AF117, AF118, AF119, AF120, AF13
Plain Toe Boot PTB Ravello Modified last 11200
Plain Toe Boot PTB Ravello Bootmaker Edition 4030
Plain Toe Boot Dark Burgundy 45148HC
Plain Toe Boot Black 45149HC
Tanker Norwegian Split Toe Boots #8 4050H
Tanker Boot Dark Burgundy 40428C
Tanker Boot Black 40429C
Tanker #8 for Citishoes 4020HC
Indy Boot #8 Trubalance Last 40508H, Dark Burgundy 40568H, Black 40569H
Straight Tip Blucher Oxford: 2160, 2161, 24802
Norwegian Front Blucher Oxford: 2210, 2211
Perf Tip Bal Oxford: 9015, 9016
Tip Blucher Oxford: 2145, 2146
Also, see Alden of Carmel and Leather Soul

Alfred Sargent
Alfred Sargent will make almost any shoe in its line in cordovan on a Made To Order (MTO) basis. Some previous shell cordovan models include:
Gibson saddle in whiskey with black saddle and counters
Single buckle plain toe monk straps
Ramsey double buckle monk straps in whiskey
Holburn cap toe boot cognac

Allen Edmonds – It used to be you could look for a split dovetail / McAfee heel as a key identifying mark for Allen Edmonds shell cordovan shoes. AE now uses the dovetail beyond shell offerings, so that particular heel toplift design element is no longer a guarantee of shell cordovan. All Allen Edmonds shell cordovan shoes are built on a Goodyear welt, designed for resoling and reheeling. Because shell cordovan lasts so long, it is not unusual to find Allen Edmonds’ shell cordovan shoes without the original heels or original soles. The upper can be beautiful shell cordovan, but a new heel project could drop the dovetail. On the inside wall, shoe model lining numbers may fade, may have new leather applied over part of the number, the numbers may even disappear, but they do not change.

Allen Edmonds has changed style numbers and leathers of the same model, even when the shoe remains the same. A style number in this list is not dead solid perfect that the number is a guarantee for all time that a pair of Allen Edmonds shoes are shell cordovan. The same advice Ronald Reagan gave about arms-control agreements applies to shell cordovan: “Trust, but verify.” In 1968, when Allen Edmonds was spelling the 21st century MacNeil model as “Mac Neil,” AE offered style number 9107 in black shell cordovan. Style number 9147 was “Cordoba” shell cordovan, a shade close to the current #8 color. In December 2010, the MacNeil 9107 was black polished cobbler, and there is a report AE has used 9147 as another polished cobbler for MacNeil. Finally, some of these style numbers end with the letter S. An S at the end of an Allen Edmonds style number designates an AE second. Defects are often hard to see and sometimes harder to find even on close inspection.

Allen Edmonds 1968 shell cordovan Mac Neil style numbers

Shell cordovan style numbers 9107 and 9147 from 1968 catalog for Mac Neil Allen Edmonds shoes.

Bancroft Number not known
Bates black PTB #6287
Bedford: 4363 (#8)
Bradley: 2681, 2291 (#8, burgundy); 2611 (black)
Brioni black slip-ons with leather top vamp –not a penny loafer
Broadmoor: 7743 (wingtip saddle blucher) /6348 (plain saddle blucher) (#8)
Cambridge: 8685 (#8, burgundy); 8625 (Whiskey); 8605 (black)
Chukka: 8084 (#8)
Clifton: 3388 (#8) quarter brogue blucher
Cole 2461 brown penny loafer
Dalton 0181 (burgundy) boot
Dundee: 3681S, 3681 (#8, burgundy); 3611 (black); 3621 (dark brown); Chukka
Fairgate: 1381 (#8); 1311 (black); 1361 (Cognac)
Grayson: 8287 (#8, burgundy); 8387 (black)
Hamilton: 5490 (#8)
Heather: 5868 (#8) PTB
Hinsdale: 2884 (#8)
Imperial: 6748 (#8) wingtip bal
Kent: 6858 (#8) wingtip bal
Leeds: 9548/9588/9581/9591 (#8, burgundy); 9501 (black); 9651 (Cognac) PTB
McGraw 9844 Special edition cappucino
MacNeil: 9097/9147/9187 (#8, burgundy); 9177/9107 (black); 9007 (Cognac) longwing
Morgan 8207 Black Sharkskin and Cordovan
8257 Briar-Fageros Sharkskin and Cordovan
Norwich 2022 (brown) monk straps
Park Avenue: 5805 (black); 5925 (brown); 5965 (burgundy)
Patriot penny loafer: 4916 (black); 4966 (brown); 4976 (dark burgundy)
Polo: 8284/8281
Randolph: 4889 (#8, burgundy); 4899 (black)
Sanford: 5287/5297 (#8); 5227 (Whiskey)
Saratoga: 8783 (#8)
Scott: 7748 (#8) shortwing blucher
Shelton ends in 21 Sharkskin and shell cordovan black saddle oxford
Slater: 9888 (#8) longwing
Strand: 1645 (Brown) semi-brogue bal
Walton: 2193 (Cognac)
Westchester: 1697 (#8) full strap penny

Andrea Ventura Oxford brogues

Bally
Wingtips “Scribe” #8
Cap Toe “Scribe” #8

Barrie Ltd
Barrie longwings 668 burgundy
Barrie PTB 657 #8 Derby, usually with V cleat
Barrie Ravello shortwings balmorals number not known
Barrie tassel loafers with side lacing #8 609
Shell shortwings

Bates Shoe Company
#8 longwings
Black PTBs 95045

Borgioli
Shell Cordovan Norvegese PTB – custom made, no numbers – Has the style name Roma on lining

Bostonian – seem to have shell models in their regular and Crown Windsor lines
Shell longwings: 2351, 5800 – has “Genuine Shell Cordovan” stamped in the bottom sole waist, 7 nail Goodyear rubber heel toplift.
Shell shortwings: 23608
Shell ptbs: 23319 (#8)
Shell tassels: 23628 (#8) 29258; 23321, 29241 (black)
Shell #8 penny loafers 23302
Shell #8 loafers tassels with kilties 23304
Shell lhs: 0351617?
Shell saddles: 23120

Bostonians (not to be confused with Bostonian)
PTB #8 553

Brioni by Silvano Lattanzi split toe oxfords with commando soles style name Singapore, no known number

British Walkers
Shell longwings –black, number not known
Shell PTBs: 6143

Brockton
PTBs #8: 2408

Brooks Brothers
Cap Toe #8 2161, 0568, #8 9015
Penny loafer #8 00003 black 06602 #8 06597
Cap Toe bluchers #8 06608
Tassel loafers black 1300 #8 772
Wingtips black 1350. Cigar 06604
PTBs #8 4765

Bruno Cucinelli
PTBs brown CT240

Burlington
wingtips full brogue #8 number not known

Carmina
Captoe Oxford blucher black 000732-001,
Tassel loafer burgundy 000734-001, black 00734-003
Derby punch captoe 000748-001
Captoe balmoral burgundy 000762-001
Chukka boot burgundy 000905-001, cognac 000905-009
Wholecut balmoral 000910-001, black 000910-003, navy 000910-006
Wingtip cognac 000922-004
Cap toe brogue rubi 080105-005
Monk strap burgundy 080156-001
Lace-up boot cap toe burgundy 080179-001
Double monk strap cap toe cognac 080250-012
Lace-up wingtip green 080254-001
Wingtip boot cognac 080262-004

Carmina Albaladejo full brogue wingtip brown “cognac” — handwritten on lining “Genuine cordovan”
Carmina brown austerity wingtip for Paul Stuart 4587
Carmina for Sky Valet #8 monkstraps – no style number “shell cordovan” handwritten on lining

Cheaney
Cheaney for Yamane boot
Cheaney longwing #8 7904T

Cheaney as a stand-alone brand for Shell – penny loafer burgundy
Cheaney tassel loafer burgundy and black
Cheaney cap toe with medallion

Chevallier
835712 #8 Venetian

Church’s –Church’s sometimes describes shell cordovan as “ horse crup”
Shannon Burgundy
Consul PTB #8
Grafton wingtip Black and Burgundy
Stratton Burgundy
Keats tassel loafer #8
PTB 08740 Cigar Brown, #8 C554C, Brown C555C
Church’s long wings #8 C296
Church’s via Royal Tweed division #8 burgundy tassel moc toe 9257C Marked on insole Genuine Cordovan
Church’s via Royal Tweed division of Cheaney #8 burgundy longwing 9245C

Cole Haan
Shell longwings: (#8) 0214
Cole Haan City medallion toes balmorals Made in Italy with “Genuine Shell Cordovan” on soles Red City tag
Cole Haan vintage burgundy penny loafers stock number 32 V cleat no known insole number Named Cole Haan Imperial
Cole Haan Saddle Oxford 4062
Cole Haan balmoral saddle oxfords plain toes – no known insole number
Cole Haan wingtips in cordovan and black – number not known
Cole Haan crocodile and cordovan black – number not known

Cordwainer Wright
longwings #8 386
bluchers
#785 5 eyelet blucher longwings

Crockett & Jones
Crockett & Jones makes shoes with its own name and private label shoes and boots for a number of high end retailers. The most famous American sellers are Brooks Brothers through its Peal & Co imprint and Ralph Lauren under various labels. While C&J usually stamps the name and a shoe number on the lining, it normally has a hand written number and no name on Brooks Brothers and Ralph Lauren offerings. Crockett & Jones also makes private label shoes with handwritten numbers and names, with the name matching the style, while the number comes nowhere close to the usual C&J style number.

Bradford dark brown straight cap toe derby 5016-H19
Cardigan 4 dark brown full brogue wingtip
Cavendish #8 tassel loafer
Finsbury full brogue wingtip #8 5646
Harlech straight cap toe derby dark brown 5508
Harvard Unlined loafer whiskey shell 8365
Henley penny loafer half strap 8893
Lindrick full brogue wingtip boot for Ralph Lauren #8 and cigar
Skye full brogue derby wingtip boot #8

Danner (made in USA, sold in Japan from Japanese shell cordovan)
brown and black “Postman” PTBs no known numbers

Dexter
Full brogue longwing #8 217644

Duckie Brown for Florsheim
Wingtip shells 19007
Wingtip boots #8

Dunhill
Santoni for Dunhill PTB burgundy

Edward Green
Full brogue wingtip Navy
Bordon cap toe blucher brown
Derwent full brogue wingtip blucher navy
Grasmere cap toe with perfing blucher whisky
Longmoor full brogue wingtip black
Oundle for Leather Soul monk strap cognac
Oundle for Leffot monk strap dark brown
Windemere PTB 5 eyelet derby burgundy

Etonic
Wingtip Bal #8 3100 or 6895

Epaulet
Anderson jumper boot by Carmina in cognac
Rand single monk by Carmina in cognac
Greeley balmoral boot by Carmina in ruby
Longwings by Alden in whiskey
Sinclair wingtip boot by Carmina in burgundy
Alt Wien medallion cap toe bluchers by Carmina Loden (dark green)
Salinger double monk by Carmina in saddle
Fitzgerald wingtips by Carmina in cognac
Brixton wingtip with medallion boots by Alden in #8

Fairmont
PTB Derby 5875

Florsheim – there are couple of popular Florsheim shell models (longwings and ptbs), but there have also been a number of other Florsheim shell shoes over the years. I have left off the model names as well as the relative “line” (Imperial, Royal Imperial) below since it’s fairly easy to determine those things when looking at the shoes.
Florsheim Shell Cordovan Shoes on eBay
Shell ptbs: 93606/92606(rare) (#8); 92650/92621 (black) 355465
Shell longwings: 93605/97626/78006 (#8); 29649 (black) 92612 (Imperial)
Shell tassels: 93231 (#8) 322419
Shell venetian loafers: 78000 (#8) Black (Yuma) 92010
Shell saddles: 97(?)324 (#8); ????? (black)
Imperial #8 shell penny/lhs: 303214
Shortwings: 3230X
Shell lhs: 97164
#8 NST 479899
# 8 Shell monk straps: 440079
Shell split toe oxfords blucher 5 eyelet 516884 or 4310 CK

Florsheim also reintroduced a line of the classic Kenmoor wingtips in various Horween shell cordovan colors. The leather is listed as “cordovan” on the Florsheim site. Email correspondence with a Florsheim spokesperson shows these are Horween shell cordovan.

The newer Florsheim shell cordovan Kenmoor wingtip Oxfords are:
Kenmoor Black 11416-001
Kenmoor Scotch 11416-232
Kenmoor Dark Green 11416-301
Kenmoor Blue 11416-400
Kenmoor Petrol Blue 11416-443
Kenmoor Cordovan 11416-602
Kenmoor Dark Cherry 11416-605
Kenmoor Cherry 11416-610

Foot-Joy
Saddles 75291 burgundy plain toe balmorals
75259 burgundy longwings
Burgundy wingtips full Oxfords 1909 For Field and Flint Co. Brockton, MA
Shell burgundy tassel loafers:, 75234, 75234Z
Shell longwings
Shell and Scotchgrain calfskin full brogue spectator burgundy shell with black calfskin Possibly 75117?
Shell on shell #8 main and black saddle number not known

Franceshetti
Black captoe medallions 037810
Brown wingtips 037814
Black Chelsea boots

Frank Brothers
#8 PTB no number
Pebbled brown calf and #8 shell cord saddle number not known 6 eyelet balmoral

Frankenburger
black PTB no number given

Freeman Bootmaker Guild
burgundy captoe blucher 4033
black plain toe blucher – not known

French Shriner (& Urner)
Shell longwings: 8715?
Shell #8 longwings: 87160
Shell shortwings: 8061
Shell tassels

Gaziano & Girling
Canterbury cap toe boot #8, black
Deco “Papworth” wingtip balmorals brown
Grosvenor monk strap chestnut
Plain Toe Derby (in the U.S., PTB) cognac

Gieves & Hawkes –black wingtips number unknown

“Gold Bond” exclusive to Sears
#8 PTB number unknown

Grenson
longwings: navy
Grenson PTB
Grenson Masterpiece line for Paul Stuart “Stuart’s Choice” PTB black 601
PTB shell cordovan 602

Hanig’s Chicago
tassel loafers #8 1003 probably Hanover

Hanover – Hanover shells were issued in their regular, Imperial, and LB Sheppard lines. Hanover also made shell cordovan shoes for Sears.
Shell longwings: 2351 (#8) C555C lighter than #8
Shell ptbs: 3168 (black) 2168 (burgundy) no known number (ravello)
Shell ptbs burgundy 2138 Shell PTB black 3168
Shell saddles: 2100 (#8); 2106 (#8 and black)
LWBS 3153 2015
Shell tassels: 2505 (#8); 3505 or 3606 (black)
Shell saddle oxford 23173 burgundy
Shell penny moc loafer 2521

Heinrich Dinkelacker
Art.-Nr. 3103 43 45 Wingtip Oxblood
Art.-Nr. 4403 43 48 Oxford Oxblood
Art.-Nr. 4701 43 44 Wien Penny Loafer Oxblood
Art.-Nr. 5992 43 60 York Longwing Black
Art.-Nr. 8022 43 60 London Plain Toe Oxblood PTB
Art.-Nr. 8031 43 50 London Oxblood Wingtip

J Crew
Alden dark burgundy chukka plain toe marked Alden for J. Crew on insole gold stamp
J Crew 9 eyelet/hook lace-up boots by Alden 39628H
J Crew longwing bluchers #8 by Alden 26508

Jarman
brown longwings
Jarman Benchmark for Men black PTBs. Do not know the numbers. On bottom sole of original soles word CORDOVAN in upper case caps.

Johnston & Murphy – Seem to have had shell models in the regular, Aristocraft, and Crown Aristocraft lines.
PTBs burgundy 24-9312 – bottom sole waist states GENUINE SHELL CORDOVAN
Shell beefroll: 24-9012
Shell lhs:
Shell longwings: 24-5054
Shell saddles:
Shell shortwings: 24-4949
Shell tassels: 58528

Keith Highlander
Shell shortwings: 3562V
Shell longwings: 3564V, 3564
Shell ptbs: 3570V, black PTBs 1570V

King & Clarke
#8 moccasin toe loafer number not known

Kow Hoo
Hong Kong custom shoemaker – no style numbers, various styles

Lazlo Vass
Bespoke Budapesters (insole stamp reads “VASS HERRENSCHUHE BUDAPEST”
Laszlo Vass Saddle Shell Cordovan Weymouth Wingtip chestnut/brown
Vass can make just about any of its styles as a Made To Order (MTO) shell cordovan shoe. As it says on the Vass website, “The choice is yours.”

Leather Soul
PTB ravello LS10 (Leather Soul has also offered a PTB in cigar, black, and #8)
Plaza wingtip boot: #8, cigar
Norwegian Split Toe (NST) Blucher: #8, whiskey
PTB 4 eyelet Nassau #8 and black
Plaza balmoral: #8 and black
PC cap toe boot by Saint Crispin for Rubber Soul: #8 and Russian calf MTO
Cap toe Jumper Boots: cigar (LSDT), burgundy, black
Chukka boot: black, ravello
Longwing blucher by Trickers Galosh for Leather Soul Navy blue
Side Gore slip-on: black and burgundy
Aberdeen PT Balmoral: black
Attorney shoe cap toe balmorals: #8
Barrie V-Tip NST: #8, cigar
Barrie shortwing wingtip: black, ravello, #8
Troon monk strap by Edward Green for Leather Soul: brown
Hampton perf cap toe: black
6 eyelet Chukka boot: #8, black
Indy boot: #8
#8 Plaza buckle boot: #8 (naturally)
Plaza George buckle boot: #8
Unlined PTBs: #8
Hampton medallion blucher: #8
Plaza monk strap: black, #8
Edward Green Sandringham wingtip blucher: cognac
Plaza semi-brogue: #8, black
Shortwing wingtip bluchers: #8, ravello
Slip on chukka boot: #8
4 eyelet PTB: #4, #8, black
Pitt lace up boots plain toe: cigar
Plaza straight tip balmoral: burgundy #8
2 tone saddle: #8 and black
#4 black saddle blucher: #4 and black
Officer dress boot cap toe: #8
4 x 4 PTB 4 eyelet plain toe bluchers: #4
Plaza Indy boot: #8
Ranger blucher moccasin toe: #8, black
Edward Green for Leather Soul Farrington 3 eyelet PTB: whiskey
Hight boots (Hawaiian Tankers) NST: #8, black

Lee Kee Custom handmade in Hong Kong (Kowloon) numbers vary by customer.
No set style numbers. Loafers, commando boots.

Leffot
Ivy – handsewn moc toe loafers – Made by Rancourt & Co. Lewiston, Maine
Alden for Leffot LWB Barrie Last, Ravello Shell Cordovan, Double Leather Soles
Alden for Leffot JC Indy Boot Cigar SC Trubalance Last, Cigar Shell Cordovan, Commando Soles
Alden for Leffot Tanker Norwegian Split Toe Boots
Alden for Leffot Day Tripper cap toe boot #4 40640

Lidfort
black PTBs 337

Lloyd & Haig
Shell shortwings:
Shell longwings:
Shell plain toe derby (By Hanover) 7083 7 nail Goodyear rubber heel toplift “Lloyd & Haig” stamp in sole waist, gold insole imprint “Lloyd & Haig Custom Built” Union logo (globe) on insole sidewall
Shell PTB 6130X toplift solid rubber with no name

Lloyds (by Hanover)
full strap penny loafers: 7923

London Walkers
Shell chukkas: 921F (#8)

Ludwig Reiter
Austria custom stamped Genuine Shell Cordovan in English on insole stamp. Brown Budapester.

Magna
#8 tassel loafers – number not known

Magnanni Seleccion
Ravello – tag on heel label states “anca porto – conac.”
Magnanni loafer slip-ons tassels #8 front and heels, wrinkled black in middle number unknown

Martin Drake
Longwing Bluchers #8 Shell (probably made by Florsheim)

Mason
Executive Imperial
Shell ptbs: D300 0662B1 (#8)
Full wingtip brogue oxfords Burgundy 1380 490

Meermin
Black shell cordovan and suede longwing
Meermin wingtip boot 101504
101482 – Black Shell Cordovan
101477 – Black Shell Cordovan Boots
101400 – Light Brown Shell Cordovan
101426 – Black Shell Cordovan
101341 – Light Brown Shell Cordovan
101375 – Bordeaux Shell Cordovan
101381 – Bordeaux Shell Cordovan
101426 – Black Shell Cordovan

Mezlan
shell cordovan loafers with sides shell cordovan and tops suede black

Nettleton – Almost all Nettleton shell cordovan shoes are in burgundy.
Shell longwings: 28167, 0208
Shell 68112 wingtips
Shell lhs: 82161
Shell U-tip: 60990 (also known as Lazy Lacers, brown shell)
Shell tassels: 24519 (#8)
Saddles 4062
Whiskey Shell Cordovan PTB 4064
Nettleton Traditionals longwing blucher #8 4063
Nettleton PTB Black 7423 V cleat heels
Nettleton PTB #8 73302, 84170
Shell PTB black all one piece leather – number not known. Original McAfee dovetail heel, bottom soles read GENUINE SHELL CORDOVAN
Shell PTB burgundy one piece leather – number not known
Nettleton black wingtips without medallions and sharkskin heels and space between toe box and vamp number unknown.

Nunn Bush
3193715 longwing bluchers appear from Hanover
Nunn Bush #8 longwing bluchers 2847

Paul Smith
longwing #8

Plymouth
2503 Regency Quality Burgundy Longwings (Horween’s Shell Cordovan stamped on outer sole at instep)
Plymouth wingtips #8 485 balmoral Oxfords

Prada
loafer #8 0670 plain moc toe

Ralph Lauren
Shell chukka: 81510/46140 Dark Brown
Shell dark brown cordovan Oxnard Jodphur boot ALM 59770
Shell boots Lindrick by C&J Cord #8 wingtips
Shell lhs:1812817/46121 (dark brown) << by Crockett & Jones
Shell shortwings: 46122
Shell longwing: 1812819 (dark brown)
Shell tassel:1812818 (dark brown)
Shell Penny Loafer 81597 68260 Marlow Penn (by Crockett & Jones)
Shell Tassel Loafer 81597 68270 by Crockett & Jones
Shell ptb: 46120
Gianni hand sewn fronts boots brown by Crockett & Jones

Rancourt
In a 2011 Reddit “Ask Me Anything” online forum, Kyle Rancourt wrote, “We can produce any of our styles in shell cordovan.” When you are a family run company, the MTO field is wide open. Below are some Rancourt shoes made for Brooks Brothers and other Rancourt shell cordovan shoes with a higher volume than special orders.
Venetian Loafers for Brooks Brothers MH00389 black, burgundy, tan
Rancourt Made To Order MTO Pinch Penny Loafer – black, espresso, caramel, #8, navy, dark green
Rancourt Made To Order MTO Weltline Penny Loafer — #8 06524
Rancourt Blake boot #8

Rider Boot
Richmond 42 Last, Color 6 Shell Cordovan
Rider Boot Co by Martegani Whiskey Shell Cordovan chukka boots
Horween Moka Shell Cordovan Leather, Sestriere Soles – MTO

Robert Carlyle
Style Number C4317

Roblee (1908 to circa 1958)
Burgundy wingtip
Black wingtip
Burgundy PTB Possible number 3467

Royal Guardsman
55516 Black Longwings

Royal Tweed by Cheaney
9246C PTBs #8
Royal Tweed by Cheaney #8 longwings 9245C
Royal Tweed by Cheaney penny loafer unknown # color burgundy

Saint Crispin Look to Leffot

Santoni
Remington II wingtip
Santoni Plain Toe Balmorals appear special order full channeled soles # handwritten 091284-03 Santoni penny loafers burgundy 5355
Santoni cap toe with medallion burgundy 091290-03 handwritten oval
Santoni cap toe balmoral burgundy. Number not known Handwritten in oval on lining
Santoni PTBs burgundy. Number not known Handwritten in oval on lining.

Silvano Lattanzi
Norwegian split toe bluchers (handwriting on insole, usually no sizes) Made for Louis Boston.
PTBs made for Scott Hill

Stafford
Burgundy Longwings 26675 Possibly NOT shell cordovan

Stetson (U.S. brand actually made by Cheaney / Church’s of England)
6667 blucher longwings #8

Stuart McGuire – usually by Hanover
Shell longwings: Burgundy OV-419
Shell ptbs: OV-418 (#8) also 418-T
Shell tassels OV-438 (#8)
Shell penny loafers – number not known

Taylor Made Imperials
V Cleat #8 with black spectators PTB

Thom McCan
Burgundy PTB early 60s
Thom McAn “Bootmaster Style” Shell Cordovan Wingtip Black 03323 appear Hanovers

Tommy Hilfiger
double strap monks black 3934

Towncraft (that’s right, JC Penney’s house brand)
#8 PTB #6473

Tricker’s
Allan Shell cord boots M2904 Cotto Cordovan Daimite or Darmite rubber soles
Shell cord M7551 PTBs #8 with semi-spectator black strip shoe sole to grommets area
Herman cap toe boots mogano shell
Longwing navy for Leather Soul of Hawaii
Wingtip boots Trickers for Ships morgana shell
PTBs morgana shell #W2298
Bourton wingtip morgana shell

Viberg
Shell Cordovan boots no number
Viberg shell cordovan 10 eyelet lace-up boot beige shell cord no number

Visvim
deck shoe loafer #8 leather tie, white bottom soles
Foley-Folk cordovan sneaker #8 with Goodyear welt construction for resoling a sneaker. MTO

Walk Over
Executive Series Line Cap Toe Derby Burgundy bottom sole stamped Genuine Shell Cordovan
Walk Over longwings no number burgundy
Walk Over R6247 Split Toe Norwegian Blucher #8

Whites
Boots 2332MV Made USA Vibram soles, hooks and eyes

Wolverine
W00721 Color 8 Shell Cordovan boot limited edition 1000 (By Allen Edmonds?) 26670
Wolverine 1000 mile 744 LTD #8 PTB with perfing front 24417 (AE?)

Worthmore (a Florsheim subsidiary)
Shell longwings: 306 (#8) also 7387 bluchers
Shell chukkas: 04221 (black)

Wright
Shell shortwings: 396 #8
Shell longwings 386 #8
Mahogany wingtips: http://www.styleforum.net/t/268468/the-shell-cordovan-non-alden-shoe-and-boot-thread/15

Yuketen
Medallion Kiltie loafer multi-color whiskey, navy, olive, cherry, burgundy, brown, shell cordovan insole 07421
Daniels wingtip boots #8 and black
Camp mocs burgundy
Loden penny loafer green
Wingtip roper boots #8

Zegna Burgundy penny loafer no known number

Companies that will do almost any shoe in their line in shell cordovan on Made To Order (MTO) production. From these names, you can also see some of these makers will create any shoe you can think of for the right price.

Alfred Sargent
Andrea Ventura
Borgioli
Bruno Cucinelli
Edward Green
Gaziano & Girling
George Cleverley
John Lobb
Silvano Lattanzi

Below, Saphir Renovateur at a good price. I’ve paid more for this same jar. Glad to find this in stock and in quantity.

]

Official Shell Cordovan Shoes Model Numbers Guide

Horween shell cordovan color chart.

Horween shell cordovan color chart.

If you search for shell cordovan deals on eBay, Etsy, or other online sites, this guide is for you. Need to verify shoes are true shell cordovan and the pictures don’t show enough detail? Model numbers are a big help. Here at fityn.com, we love putting together eBay string searches of maker names and lining numbers. Here’s the data you need to find shell cordovan deals for yourself. Shopping at thrift stores or estate sales and run across a possible pair of shells? If your eye has doubts, use the guide for confirmation.

At one time or another, almost all shoe departments and stores stocked shell cordovan offerings. There are shell cordovan shoes with the imprint of George Cleverley and Sears, John Lobb and J.C. Penney’s (a nice model plain toe blucher PTB in #8, style number 6473). Zegna has or at one time did offer shell cordovan shoes. Thom McCan and Stuart McGuire also turned out shell cordovans. For decades, shoe enthusiasts and cobblers have been drawn to the distinctive look, longevity, and price of shell cordovan. The shell layer of a horse’s rump has been fashioned into loafers, slip-ons, casuals, dress shoes, Chukka / Chelsea / military / Indiana Jones / western boots, even real and proposed sneakers and trainers. Most of these shoes are production numbers, not individual Made To Order (MTO) pairs.

Any shell cordovan list has to tip its hat to “A Hunter’s Guide: Shell Model Numbers,” which appeared January 24, 2011 on the Ask Andy About Clothes forum. That original 2011 list had 15 makers and 76 models. This first edition Official Shell Cordovan Shoes Model Numbers Guide has more than 95 makers and over 500 model numbers, names, or shoe style descriptions.

This list is made for searching. We will do individual stories and lots of graphics later about particular manufacturers (Alden, Carmina, and Allen Edmonds are early contenders for stand-alone stories). For now, our goal is to make it easy for the reader to quickly separate shell cordovan from other leathers, providing a one stop information shop with open search capabilities.

Please use this guide as a research tool, not as revealed truth. Shoemakers can and do use the same style numbers for different shoes and leathers. EBay sellers have also been known to list a pair of Florsheims as a 93605, the venerated Florsheim #8 shell cordovan longwing. If the pictures show grain leather, that’s not Florsheim shell cordovan.

We are always looking for more names and numbers. Please send us a comment with details.

We’ve also set up links to eBay for targeted searches on some of the more popular and available shell cordovan manufacturers. If you don’t see a name brand shell cordovan link, it’s because they appear so rarely for that manufacturer that your time is better spent looking for shoes that do exist.

Shell Cordovan Shoes on eBay

Alden Shell Cordovan on eBay

Alden
Long Wing Blucher: 975, 9751, 97896, 9750, 97502, 97891
Plain Toe Blucher Oxford: 990, 9901, 93911, 9905, 9900, AF66
Traditional Saddle Oxford: Black 993, Dark Burgundy 994
Leisure Handsewn Moccasin: 986, 987, 6754, 6746
Tassel Moccasin: 563, 664
Full Strap Slip-On: 684, 6845
Penny Loafer full strap slip-on cigar 6841
Medallion tip oxfords brown 9084
Monk Strap Oxford: 954, 1655
Wing Tip Bal Oxford: 974, 9741
Wing Tip Blucher Oxford: Black AF75, #8 AF80
Cordovan Straight Tip Boot: Dark Burgundy 4070H; Black 4075H
Cordovan Wing Tip Boot: Dark Burgundy 4461H; Black 4465H
Chukka Boot: 1339, 1340, 13132, 1375, AF18, AF11, AF31, AF32
High Lace Boot for Alden Carmel AF43, AF53, AF60, AF72, AF85, AF76, AF88, AF89, AF79, AF117, AF118, AF119, AF120, AF13
Plain Toe Boot PTB Ravello Modified last 11200
Plain Toe Boot PTB Ravello Bootmaker Edition 4030
Plain Toe Boot Dark Burgundy 45148HC
Plain Toe Boot Black 45149HC
Tanker Norwegian Split Toe Boots #8 4050H
Tanker Boot Dark Burgundy 40428C
Tanker Boot Black 40429C
Tanker #8 for Citishoes 4020HC
Indy Boot #8 Trubalance Last 40508H, Dark Burgundy 40568H, Black 40569H
Straight Tip Blucher Oxford: 2160, 2161, 24802
Norwegian Front Blucher Oxford: 2210, 2211
Perf Tip Bal Oxford: 9015, 9016
Tip Blucher Oxford: 2145, 2146
Also, see Alden of Carmel and Leather Soul

Alfred Sargent
Alfred Sargent will make almost any shoe in its line in cordovan on a Made To Order (MTO) basis. Some previous shell cordovan models include:
Gibson saddle in whiskey with black saddle and counters
Single buckle plain toe monk straps
Ramsey double buckle monk straps in whiskey
Holburn cap toe boot cognac

Allen Edmonds – It used to be you could look for a split dovetail / McAfee heel as a key identifying mark for Allen Edmonds shell cordovan shoes. AE now uses the dovetail beyond shell offerings, so that particular heel toplift design element is no longer a guarantee of shell cordovan. All Allen Edmonds shell cordovan shoes are built on a Goodyear welt, designed for resoling and reheeling. Because shell cordovan lasts so long, it is not unusual to find Allen Edmonds’ shell cordovan shoes without the original heels or original soles. The upper can be beautiful shell cordovan, but a new heel project could drop the dovetail. On the inside wall, shoe model lining numbers may fade, may have new leather applied over part of the number, the numbers may even disappear, but they do not change.

Allen Edmonds has changed style numbers and leathers of the same model, even when the shoe remains the same. A style number in this list is not dead solid perfect that the number is a guarantee for all time that a pair of Allen Edmonds shoes are shell cordovan. The same advice Ronald Reagan gave about arms-control agreements applies to shell cordovan: “Trust, but verify.” In 1968, when Allen Edmonds was spelling the 21st century MacNeil model as “Mac Neil,” AE offered style number 9107 in black shell cordovan. Style number 9147 was “Cordoba” shell cordovan, a shade close to the current #8 color. In December 2010, the MacNeil 9107 was black polished cobbler, and there is a report AE has used 9147 as another polished cobbler for MacNeil. Finally, some of these style numbers end with the letter S. An S at the end of an Allen Edmonds style number designates an AE second. Defects are often hard to see and sometimes harder to find even on close inspection.

Allen Edmonds 1968 shell cordovan Mac Neil style numbers

Shell cordovan style numbers 9107 and 9147 from 1968 catalog for Mac Neil Allen Edmonds shoes.

Bancroft Number not known
Bates black PTB #6287
Bedford: 4363 (#8)
Bradley: 2681, 2291 (#8, burgundy); 2611 (black)
Brioni black slip-ons with leather top vamp –not a penny loafer
Broadmoor: 7743 (wingtip saddle blucher) /6348 (plain saddle blucher) (#8)
Cambridge: 8685 (#8, burgundy); 8625 (Whiskey); 8605 (black)
Chukka: 8084 (#8)
Clifton: 3388 (#8) quarter brogue blucher
Cole 2461 brown penny loafer
Dalton 0181 (burgundy) boot
Dundee: 3681S, 3681 (#8, burgundy); 3611 (black); 3621 (dark brown); Chukka
Fairgate: 1381 (#8); 1311 (black); 1361 (Cognac)
Grayson: 8287 (#8, burgundy); 8387 (black)
Hamilton: 5490 (#8)
Heather: 5868 (#8) PTB
Hinsdale: 2884 (#8)
Imperial: 6748 (#8) wingtip bal
Kent: 6858 (#8) wingtip bal
Leeds: 9548/9588/9581/9591 (#8, burgundy); 9501 (black); 9651 (Cognac) PTB
McGraw 9844 Special edition cappucino
MacNeil: 9097/9147/9187 (#8, burgundy); 9177/9107 (black); 9007 (Cognac) longwing
Morgan 8207 Black Sharkskin and Cordovan
8257 Briar-Fageros Sharkskin and Cordovan
Norwich 2022 (brown) monk straps
Park Avenue: 5805 (black); 5925 (brown); 5965 (burgundy)
Patriot penny loafer: 4916 (black); 4966 (brown); 4976 (dark burgundy)
Polo: 8284/8281
Randolph: 4889 (#8, burgundy); 4899 (black)
Sanford: 5287/5297 (#8); 5227 (Whiskey)
Saratoga: 8783 (#8)
Scott: 7748 (#8) shortwing blucher
Shelton ends in 21 Sharkskin and shell cordovan black saddle oxford
Slater: 9888 (#8) longwing
Strand: 1645 (Brown) semi-brogue bal
Walton: 2193 (Cognac)
Westchester: 1697 (#8) full strap penny

Andrea Ventura Oxford brogues

Bally
Wingtips “Scribe” #8
Cap Toe “Scribe” #8

Barrie Ltd
Barrie longwings 668 burgundy
Barrie PTB 657 #8 Derby, usually with V cleat
Barrie Ravello shortwings balmorals number not known
Barrie tassel loafers with side lacing #8 609
Shell shortwings

Bates Shoe Company
#8 longwings
Black PTBs 95045

Borgioli
Shell Cordovan Norvegese PTB – custom made, no numbers – Has the style name Roma on lining

Bostonian – seem to have shell models in their regular and Crown Windsor lines
Shell longwings: 2351, 5800 – has “Genuine Shell Cordovan” stamped in the bottom sole waist, 7 nail Goodyear rubber heel toplift.
Shell shortwings: 23608
Shell ptbs: 23319 (#8)
Shell tassels: 23628 (#8) 29258; 23321, 29241 (black)
Shell #8 penny loafers 23302
Shell #8 loafers tassels with kilties 23304
Shell lhs: 0351617?
Shell saddles: 23120

Bostonians (not to be confused with Bostonian)
PTB #8 553

Brioni by Silvano Lattanzi split toe oxfords with commando soles style name Singapore, no known number

British Walkers
Shell longwings –black, number not known
Shell PTBs: 6143

Brockton
PTBs #8: 2408

Brooks Brothers
Cap Toe #8 2161, 0568, #8 9015
Penny loafer #8 00003 black 06602 #8 06597
Cap Toe bluchers #8 06608
Tassel loafers black 1300 #8 772
Wingtips black 1350. Cigar 06604
PTBs #8 4765

Bruno Cucinelli
PTBs brown CT240

Burlington
wingtips full brogue #8 number not known

Carmina
Captoe Oxford blucher black 000732-001,
Tassel loafer burgundy 000734-001, black 00734-003
Derby punch captoe 000748-001
Captoe balmoral burgundy 000762-001
Chukka boot burgundy 000905-001, cognac 000905-009
Wholecut balmoral 000910-001, black 000910-003, navy 000910-006
Wingtip cognac 000922-004
Cap toe brogue rubi 080105-005
Monk strap burgundy 080156-001
Lace-up boot cap toe burgundy 080179-001
Double monk strap cap toe cognac 080250-012
Lace-up wingtip green 080254-001
Wingtip boot cognac 080262-004

Carmina Albaladejo full brogue wingtip brown “cognac” — handwritten on lining “Genuine cordovan”
Carmina brown austerity wingtip for Paul Stuart 4587
Carmina for Sky Valet #8 monkstraps – no style number “shell cordovan” handwritten on lining

Cheaney
Cheaney for Yamane boot
Cheaney longwing #8 7904T

Cheaney as a stand-alone brand for Shell – penny loafer burgundy
Cheaney tassel loafer burgundy and black
Cheaney cap toe with medallion

Chevallier
835712 #8 Venetian

Church’s –Church’s sometimes describes shell cordovan as “ horse crup”
Shannon Burgundy
Consul PTB #8
Grafton wingtip Black and Burgundy
Stratton Burgundy
Keats tassel loafer #8
PTB 08740 Cigar Brown, #8 C554C, Brown C555C
Church’s long wings #8 C296
Church’s via Royal Tweed division #8 burgundy tassel moc toe 9257C Marked on insole Genuine Cordovan
Church’s via Royal Tweed division of Cheaney #8 burgundy longwing 9245C

Cole Haan
Shell longwings: (#8) 0214
Cole Haan City medallion toes balmorals Made in Italy with “Genuine Shell Cordovan” on soles Red City tag
Cole Haan vintage burgundy penny loafers stock number 32 V cleat no known insole number Named Cole Haan Imperial
Cole Haan Saddle Oxford 4062
Cole Haan balmoral saddle oxfords plain toes – no known insole number
Cole Haan wingtips in cordovan and black – number not known
Cole Haan crocodile and cordovan black – number not known

Cordwainer Wright
longwings #8 386
bluchers
#785 5 eyelet blucher longwings

Crockett & Jones
Crockett & Jones makes shoes with its own name and private label shoes and boots for a number of high end retailers. The most famous American sellers are Brooks Brothers through its Peal & Co imprint and Ralph Lauren under various labels. While C&J usually stamps the name and a shoe number on the lining, it normally has a hand written number and no name on Brooks Brothers and Ralph Lauren offerings. Crockett & Jones also makes private label shoes with handwritten numbers and names, with the name matching the style, while the number comes nowhere close to the usual C&J style number.

Bradford dark brown straight cap toe derby 5016-H19
Cardigan 4 dark brown full brogue wingtip
Cavendish #8 tassel loafer
Finsbury full brogue wingtip #8 5646
Harlech straight cap toe derby dark brown 5508
Harvard Unlined loafer whiskey shell 8365
Henley penny loafer half strap 8893
Lindrick full brogue wingtip boot for Ralph Lauren #8 and cigar
Skye full brogue derby wingtip boot #8

Danner (made in USA, sold in Japan from Japanese shell cordovan)
brown and black “Postman” PTBs no known numbers

Dexter
Full brogue longwing #8 217644

Duckie Brown for Florsheim
Wingtip shells 19007
Wingtip boots #8

Dunhill
Santoni for Dunhill PTB burgundy

Edward Green
Full brogue wingtip Navy
Bordon cap toe blucher brown
Derwent full brogue wingtip blucher navy
Grasmere cap toe with perfing blucher whisky
Longmoor full brogue wingtip black
Oundle for Leather Soul monk strap cognac
Oundle for Leffot monk strap dark brown
Windemere PTB 5 eyelet derby burgundy

Etonic
Wingtip Bal #8 3100 or 6895

Epaulet
Anderson jumper boot by Carmina in cognac
Rand single monk by Carmina in cognac
Greeley balmoral boot by Carmina in ruby
Longwings by Alden in whiskey
Sinclair wingtip boot by Carmina in burgundy
Alt Wien medallion cap toe bluchers by Carmina Loden (dark green)
Salinger double monk by Carmina in saddle
Fitzgerald wingtips by Carmina in cognac
Brixton wingtip with medallion boots by Alden in #8

Fairmont
PTB Derby 5875

Florsheim – there are couple of popular Florsheim shell models (longwings and ptbs), but there have also been a number of other Florsheim shell shoes over the years. I have left off the model names as well as the relative “line” (Imperial, Royal Imperial) below since it’s fairly easy to determine those things when looking at the shoes.
Shell ptbs: 93606/92606(rare) (#8); 92650/92621 (black) 355465
Shell longwings: 93605/97626/78006 (#8); 29649 (black) 92612 (Imperial)
Shell tassels: 93231 (#8) 322419
Shell venetian loafers: 78000 (#8) Black (Yuma) 92010
Shell saddles: 97(?)324 (#8); ????? (black)
Imperial #8 shell penny/lhs: 303214
Shortwings: 3230X
Shell lhs: 97164
#8 NST 479899
# 8 Shell monk straps: 440079
Shell split toe oxfords blucher 5 eyelet 516884 or 4310 CK

Florsheim also reintroduced a line of the classic Kenmoor wingtips in various Horween shell cordovan colors. The leather is listed as “cordovan” on the Florsheim site. Email correspondence with a Florsheim spokesperson shows these are Horween shell cordovan.

The newer Florsheim shell cordovan Kenmoor wingtip Oxfords are:
Kenmoor Black 11416-001
Kenmoor Scotch 11416-232
Kenmoor Dark Green 11416-301
Kenmoor Blue 11416-400
Kenmoor Petrol Blue 11416-443
Kenmoor Cordovan 11416-602
Kenmoor Dark Cherry 11416-605
Kenmoor Cherry 11416-610

Foot-Joy
Saddles 75291 burgundy plain toe balmorals
75259 burgundy longwings
Burgundy wingtips full Oxfords 1909 For Field and Flint Co. Brockton, MA
Shell burgundy tassel loafers:, 75234, 75234Z
Shell longwings
Shell and Scotchgrain calfskin full brogue spectator burgundy shell with black calfskin Possibly 75117?
Shell on shell #8 main and black saddle number not known

Franceshetti
Black captoe medallions 037810
Brown wingtips 037814
Black Chelsea boots

Frank Brothers
#8 PTB no number
Pebbled brown calf and #8 shell cord saddle number not known 6 eyelet balmoral

Frankenburger
black PTB no number given

Freeman Bootmaker Guild
burgundy captoe blucher 4033
black plain toe blucher – not known

French Shriner (& Urner)
Shell longwings: 8715?
Shell #8 longwings: 87160
Shell shortwings: 8061
Shell tassels

Gaziano & Girling
Canterbury cap toe boot #8, black
Deco “Papworth” wingtip balmorals brown
Grosvenor monk strap chestnut
Plain Toe Derby (in the U.S., PTB) cognac

Gieves & Hawkes –black wingtips number unknown

“Gold Bond” exclusive to Sears
#8 PTB number unknown

Grenson
longwings: navy
Grenson PTB
Grenson Masterpiece line for Paul Stuart “Stuart’s Choice” PTB black 601
PTB shell cordovan 602

Hanig’s Chicago
tassel loafers #8 1003 probably Hanover

Hanover – Hanover shells were issued in their regular, Imperial, and LB Sheppard lines. Hanover also made shell cordovan shoes for Sears.
Shell longwings: 2351 (#8) C555C lighter than #8
Shell ptbs: 3168 (black) 2168 (burgundy) no known number (ravello)
Shell ptbs burgundy 2138 Shell PTB black 3168
Shell saddles: 2100 (#8); 2106 (#8 and black)
LWBS 3153 2015
Shell tassels: 2505 (#8); 3505 or 3606 (black)
Shell saddle oxford 23173 burgundy
Shell penny moc loafer 2521

Heinrich Dinkelacker
Art.-Nr. 3103 43 45 Wingtip Oxblood
Art.-Nr. 4403 43 48 Oxford Oxblood
Art.-Nr. 4701 43 44 Wien Penny Loafer Oxblood
Art.-Nr. 5992 43 60 York Longwing Black
Art.-Nr. 8022 43 60 London Plain Toe Oxblood PTB
Art.-Nr. 8031 43 50 London Oxblood Wingtip

J Crew
Alden dark burgundy chukka plain toe marked Alden for J. Crew on insole gold stamp
J Crew 9 eyelet/hook lace-up boots by Alden 39628H
J Crew longwing bluchers #8 by Alden 26508

Jarman
brown longwings
Jarman Benchmark for Men black PTBs. Do not know the numbers. On bottom sole of original soles word CORDOVAN in upper case caps.

Johnston & Murphy – Seem to have had shell models in the regular, Aristocraft, and Crown Aristocraft lines.
PTBs burgundy 24-9312 – bottom sole waist states GENUINE SHELL CORDOVAN
Shell beefroll: 24-9012
Shell lhs:
Shell longwings: 24-5054
Shell saddles:
Shell shortwings: 24-4949
Shell tassels: 58528

Keith Highlander
Shell shortwings: 3562V
Shell longwings: 3564V, 3564
Shell ptbs: 3570V, black PTBs 1570V

King & Clarke
#8 moccasin toe loafer number not known

Kow Hoo
Hong Kong custom shoemaker – no style numbers, various styles

Lazlo Vass
Bespoke Budapesters (insole stamp reads “VASS HERRENSCHUHE BUDAPEST”
Laszlo Vass Saddle Shell Cordovan Weymouth Wingtip chestnut/brown
Vass can make just about any of its styles as a Made To Order (MTO) shell cordovan shoe. As it says on the Vass website, “The choice is yours.”

Leather Soul
PTB ravello LS10 (Leather Soul has also offered a PTB in cigar, black, and #8)
Plaza wingtip boot: #8, cigar
Norwegian Split Toe (NST) Blucher: #8, whiskey
PTB 4 eyelet Nassau #8 and black
Plaza balmoral: #8 and black
PC cap toe boot by Saint Crispin for Rubber Soul: #8 and Russian calf MTO
Cap toe Jumper Boots: cigar (LSDT), burgundy, black
Chukka boot: black, ravello
Longwing blucher by Trickers Galosh for Leather Soul Navy blue
Side Gore slip-on: black and burgundy
Aberdeen PT Balmoral: black
Attorney shoe cap toe balmorals: #8
Barrie V-Tip NST: #8, cigar
Barrie shortwing wingtip: black, ravello, #8
Troon monk strap by Edward Green for Leather Soul: brown
Hampton perf cap toe: black
6 eyelet Chukka boot: #8, black
Indy boot: #8
#8 Plaza buckle boot: #8 (naturally)
Plaza George buckle boot: #8
Unlined PTBs: #8
Hampton medallion blucher: #8
Plaza monk strap: black, #8
Edward Green Sandringham wingtip blucher: cognac
Plaza semi-brogue: #8, black
Shortwing wingtip bluchers: #8, ravello
Slip on chukka boot: #8
4 eyelet PTB: #4, #8, black
Pitt lace up boots plain toe: cigar
Plaza straight tip balmoral: burgundy #8
2 tone saddle: #8 and black
#4 black saddle blucher: #4 and black
Officer dress boot cap toe: #8
4 x 4 PTB 4 eyelet plain toe bluchers: #4
Plaza Indy boot: #8
Ranger blucher moccasin toe: #8, black
Edward Green for Leather Soul Farrington 3 eyelet PTB: whiskey
Hight boots (Hawaiian Tankers) NST: #8, black

Lee Kee Custom handmade in Hong Kong (Kowloon) numbers vary by customer.
No set style numbers. Loafers, commando boots.

Leffot
Ivy – handsewn moc toe loafers – Made by Rancourt & Co. Lewiston, Maine
Alden for Leffot LWB Barrie Last, Ravello Shell Cordovan, Double Leather Soles
Alden for Leffot JC Indy Boot Cigar SC Trubalance Last, Cigar Shell Cordovan, Commando Soles
Alden for Leffot Tanker Norwegian Split Toe Boots
Alden for Leffot Day Tripper cap toe boot #4 40640

Lidfort
black PTBs 337

Lloyd & Haig
Shell shortwings:
Shell longwings:
Shell plain toe derby (By Hanover) 7083 7 nail Goodyear rubber heel toplift “Lloyd & Haig” stamp in sole waist, gold insole imprint “Lloyd & Haig Custom Built” Union logo (globe) on insole sidewall
Shell PTB 6130X toplift solid rubber with no name

Lloyds (by Hanover)
full strap penny loafers: 7923

London Walkers
Shell chukkas: 921F (#8)

Ludwig Reiter
Austria custom stamped Genuine Shell Cordovan in English on insole stamp. Brown Budapester.

Magna
#8 tassel loafers – number not known

Magnanni Seleccion
Ravello – tag on heel label states “anca porto – conac.”
Magnanni loafer slip-ons tassels #8 front and heels, wrinkled black in middle number unknown

Martin Drake
Longwing Bluchers #8 Shell (probably made by Florsheim)

Mason
Executive Imperial
Shell ptbs: D300 0662B1 (#8)
Full wingtip brogue oxfords Burgundy 1380 490

Meermin
Black shell cordovan and suede longwing
Meermin wingtip boot 101504
101482 – Black Shell Cordovan
101477 – Black Shell Cordovan Boots
101400 – Light Brown Shell Cordovan
101426 – Black Shell Cordovan
101341 – Light Brown Shell Cordovan
101375 – Bordeaux Shell Cordovan
101381 – Bordeaux Shell Cordovan
101426 – Black Shell Cordovan

Mezlan
shell cordovan loafers with sides shell cordovan and tops suede black

Nettleton – Almost all Nettleton shell cordovan shoes are in burgundy.
Shell longwings: 28167, 0208
Shell 68112 wingtips
Shell lhs: 82161
Shell U-tip: 60990 (also known as Lazy Lacers, brown shell)
Shell tassels: 24519 (#8)
Saddles 4062
Whiskey Shell Cordovan PTB 4064
Nettleton Traditionals longwing blucher #8 4063
Nettleton PTB Black 7423 V cleat heels
Nettleton PTB #8 73302, 84170
Shell PTB black all one piece leather – number not known. Original McAfee dovetail heel, bottom soles read GENUINE SHELL CORDOVAN
Shell PTB burgundy one piece leather – number not known
Nettleton black wingtips without medallions and sharkskin heels and space between toe box and vamp number unknown.

Nunn Bush
3193715 longwing bluchers appear from Hanover
Nunn Bush #8 longwing bluchers 2847

Paul Smith
longwing #8

Plymouth
2503 Regency Quality Burgundy Longwings (Horween’s Shell Cordovan stamped on outer sole at instep)
Plymouth wingtips #8 485 balmoral Oxfords

Prada
loafer #8 0670 plain moc toe

Ralph Lauren
Shell chukka: 81510/46140 Dark Brown
Shell dark brown cordovan Oxnard Jodphur boot ALM 59770
Shell boots Lindrick by C&J Cord #8 wingtips
Shell lhs:1812817/46121 (dark brown) << by Crockett & Jones
Shell shortwings: 46122
Shell longwing: 1812819 (dark brown)
Shell tassel:1812818 (dark brown)
Shell Penny Loafer 81597 68260 Marlow Penn (by Crockett & Jones)
Shell Tassel Loafer 81597 68270 by Crockett & Jones
Shell ptb: 46120
Gianni hand sewn fronts boots brown by Crockett & Jones

Rancourt
In a 2011 Reddit “Ask Me Anything” online forum, Kyle Rancourt wrote, “We can produce any of our styles in shell cordovan.” When you are a family run company, the MTO field is wide open. Below are some Rancourt shoes made for Brooks Brothers and other Rancourt shell cordovan shoes with a higher volume than special orders.
Venetian Loafers for Brooks Brothers MH00389 black, burgundy, tan
Rancourt Made To Order MTO Pinch Penny Loafer – black, espresso, caramel, #8, navy, dark green
Rancourt Made To Order MTO Weltline Penny Loafer — #8 06524
Rancourt Blake boot #8

Rider Boot
Richmond 42 Last, Color 6 Shell Cordovan
Rider Boot Co by Martegani Whiskey Shell Cordovan chukka boots
Horween Moka Shell Cordovan Leather, Sestriere Soles – MTO

Robert Carlyle
Style Number C4317

Roblee (1908 to circa 1958)
Burgundy wingtip
Black wingtip
Burgundy PTB Possible number 3467

Royal Guardsman
55516 Black Longwings

Royal Tweed by Cheaney
9246C PTBs #8
Royal Tweed by Cheaney #8 longwings 9245C
Royal Tweed by Cheaney penny loafer unknown # color burgundy

Saint Crispin Look to Leffot

Santoni
Remington II wingtip
Santoni Plain Toe Balmorals appear special order full channeled soles # handwritten 091284-03 Santoni penny loafers burgundy 5355
Santoni cap toe with medallion burgundy 091290-03 handwritten oval
Santoni cap toe balmoral burgundy. Number not known Handwritten in oval on lining
Santoni PTBs burgundy. Number not known Handwritten in oval on lining.

Silvano Lattanzi
Norwegian split toe bluchers (handwriting on insole, usually no sizes) Made for Louis Boston.
PTBs made for Scott Hill

Stafford
Burgundy Longwings 26675 Possibly NOT shell cordovan

Stetson (U.S. brand actually made by Cheaney / Church’s of England)
6667 blucher longwings #8

Stuart McGuire – usually by Hanover
Shell longwings: Burgundy OV-419
Shell ptbs: OV-418 (#8) also 418-T
Shell tassels OV-438 (#8)
Shell penny loafers – number not known

Taylor Made Imperials
V Cleat #8 with black spectators PTB

Thom McCan
Burgundy PTB early 60s
Thom McAn “Bootmaster Style” Shell Cordovan Wingtip Black 03323 appear Hanovers

Tommy Hilfiger
double strap monks black 3934

Towncraft (that’s right, JC Penney’s house brand)
#8 PTB #6473

Tricker’s
Allan Shell cord boots M2904 Cotto Cordovan Daimite or Darmite rubber soles
Shell cord M7551 PTBs #8 with semi-spectator black strip shoe sole to grommets area
Herman cap toe boots mogano shell
Longwing navy for Leather Soul of Hawaii
Wingtip boots Trickers for Ships morgana shell
PTBs morgana shell #W2298
Bourton wingtip morgana shell

Viberg
Shell Cordovan boots no number
Viberg shell cordovan 10 eyelet lace-up boot beige shell cord no number

Visvim
deck shoe loafer #8 leather tie, white bottom soles
Foley-Folk cordovan sneaker #8 with Goodyear welt construction for resoling a sneaker. MTO

Walk Over
Executive Series Line Cap Toe Derby Burgundy bottom sole stamped Genuine Shell Cordovan
Walk Over longwings no number burgundy
Walk Over R6247 Split Toe Norwegian Blucher #8

Whites
Boots 2332MV Made USA Vibram soles, hooks and eyes

Wolverine
W00721 Color 8 Shell Cordovan boot limited edition 1000 (By Allen Edmonds?) 26670
Wolverine 1000 mile 744 LTD #8 PTB with perfing front 24417 (AE?)

Worthmore (a Florsheim subsidiary)
Shell longwings: 306 (#8) also 7387 bluchers
Shell chukkas: 04221 (black)

Wright
Shell shortwings: 396 #8
Shell longwings 386 #8
Mahogany wingtips: http://www.styleforum.net/t/268468/the-shell-cordovan-non-alden-shoe-and-boot-thread/15

Yuketen
Medallion Kiltie loafer multi-color whiskey, navy, olive, cherry, burgundy, brown, shell cordovan insole 07421
Daniels wingtip boots #8 and black
Camp mocs burgundy
Loden penny loafer green
Wingtip roper boots #8

Zegna Burgundy penny loafer no known number

Companies that will do almost any shoe in their line in shell cordovan on Made To Order (MTO) production. From these names, you can also see some of these makers will create any shoe you can think of for the right price.

Alfred Sargent
Andrea Ventura
Borgioli
Bruno Cucinelli
Edward Green
Gaziano & Girling
George Cleverley
John Lobb
Silvano Lattanzi

Below, Saphir Renovateur at a good price. I’ve paid more for this same jar. Glad to find this in stock and in quantity.

[/wr_column]